Home exchange:

São Paulo vs. Santiago


How would it be to spend a weekend at someone else’s home, in another country? Brazilian photographer Luciana Cristhovam and advertising agent Felipe Moraga Moroni accepted this challenge proposed by Vamos/LATAM

Home, sweet home

Felipe: Luciana’s House in Vila Madalena it was my favorite place, though it seems incredible. The house where she lives with her two children is on a quiet residential street. It’s large, comfortable, and a great place to come home to after walking for hours.

Luciana: From Felipe’s apartment, in Bellas Artes, where he lives with his cat Uma, you can see two different sides of Santiago: old buildings like the Basílica de la Merced (which dates back to the 16th century) contrast with ultra-modern skyscrapers.



Felipe: After a typical breakfast at nearby Confeitaria Letícia (Rua Natingui, 823) – coffee with milk, orange juice, pão com manteiga na chapa (bread fried with butter) and rabanada (bread dipped in egg and milk, then fried) – I went to the open-air market on Rua Oscar Freire to try the famous pastel de queijo (cheese empanada). Really delicious!

Luciana: Breakfast at Colmado Coffee & Bakery (Merced 346) was a delight: rustic bread made with tomatoes and served with scrambled eggs. From there, I took the Urban Art SCL tour to see the best graffiti in the Lastarria neighborhood. Then I tried an empanada at the Mercado Central (San Pablo 967), though I must confess, I prefer our pastel. What I liked the most were the places serving juices, which are original and delicious.


Cultural activities

Felipe: The building of the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (Rua Álvares Penteado, 112) is beautiful. I also visited the Catedral da Sé, which seems much older than it really is. In fact, I thought it was about 500 years old, but construction actually began in 1913. And the Terraço Itália offered an infinite view of the city. Amazing.

Luciana: Dating back to 1808, the patio of the Museo Histórico Nacional offers a glimpse of the country’s history and is a great place to take pictures (Plaza de Armas 951). Later, I went to lunch at La Maestranza, Cocina de Mercado (Franklin 1215, 46): the sausages are simply wonderful.



Felipe: The presentation of the products on Praça Benedito Calixto is well done; everything looks lovely. The place I liked best was Maria Jovem (Rua João Moura, 1019), a decor shop nearby. Later, I went to the Mercado de Pinheiros (Rua Pedro Cristi, 89) and enjoyed lunch at Mocotó Cafe.

Luciana: The streets of Barrio Italia are full of small shops filled to the brim with antiques: books, typewriters, cameras, objets d’arte galore... In the same neighborhood, El Camino (Avenida Italia 1034) serves up excellent meats in Texas BBQ style and also has an amazing avocado sour cocktail.


Bike tour

Felipe: It’s great to see Avenida Paulista, this major artery as a pedestrian promenade, with so many people walking around and musicians playing in the middle of the street. And Parque do Ibirapuera (Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral), looked like a great place to practice sports. I ended my stay with a local tradition: eating pizza on a Sunday night: Carlos Pizza (Rua Harmonia, 501) was a great tip from Luciana.

Luciana: The Parque Bicentenario is a beautiful place to exercise (Avenida Bicentenario 3883), with panoramic views of the city skyline. Then end the day in the neighborhood of Yungay, at Peluquería Francesa (Calle Compañía de Jesús 2799), one of the most original spots in Santiago, with a hair salon and a restaurant.


Photos by Luciana Cristhovam