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How to live like a local in Buenos Aires

Tips of restaurants, shops and museums from two residents in tune with the best of the Argentine capital.

TO EAT AND DRINK

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La Rambla

Lomito is the star on the menu. At this bar, with a wood counter and a few sidewalk tables, the simplest version of the sandwich has tomato, lettuce and filet mignon.

Posadas 1.602, Recoleta

 

Farinelli

You can take a look at the food before you order — the sandwiches of the day, dishes, cakes and sweets are on display on the counter. The chocolate pies are special (the one with mousse, even more so).

Bulnes 2.707, Palermo

 

Dada Bistrô

This restaurant/bar offers good food and classic drinks from 12 to 4 a.m. — it's a restaurant for lunch and dinner, a coffee shop in the afternoon and bar from 1 a.m. on. The crowd features a mix of ages and types: tourists following a tip, locals who are regulars and celebs like American filmmaker Francis Ford Coppola.

San Martin 94, Retiro

 

MUSEUMS

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Museo Fortabat

From the second floor of this museum, with plenty of natural light, the view of Puerto Madero is impressive. It was built to house the private collection of businesswoman Amalia Fortabat (her portrait was painted by Andy Warhol).

Olga Cossettini 141, Puerto Madero

 

Malba

The most important museum in the city just turned 15. The permanent collection, which currently contains around 600 pieces, includes works by Frida Kahlo, Botero and Tarsila do Amaral.

Av. Pres. Figueroa Alcorta 3.415, Palermo

 

Galería Ruth Benzacar

Located in a region filled with art galleries, this space has a roster of around 35 contemporary artists, all of them Argentine — the catalog includes such big names as León Ferrari.

Juan Ramírez de Velasco 1.287, Villa Crespo

 

SHOPPING

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Aracano

Idols, symbols and weapons become luxurious items at this shop, inspired by Andean design. The result are extravagant collections that are reminiscent of the local mysticism and divinities.

 

Hermanos Estebecorena

This small store looks a lot like an old-fashioned tailor's shop. A quick look and the different cuts and trims of the shirts will catch your attention: classically sophisticated with linen and knit fabrics occupying the same racks. The collection also includes shoes, socks and wallets.

El Salvador 5.960, Palermo

 

Jazmin Chebar

This Argentine women's clothing line produces around 600 items each season. The two establishments in Palermo contain plenty of colorful pieces, including clothes, shoes and accessories.

El Salvador 4.702 e 1.414, Palermo

 

OUTDOORS

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Jardín Botánico

There is plenty of art scattered throughout the Carlos Thays Botanical Garden. The taller trees provide shade all year round and the space is nicely populated: everywhere you look is greenery, a fountain or a greenhouse. There are no empty spaces there.

Santa Fe 3951, Palermo

 

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OUR GUIDES

Married couple Luisa de Alzaga and Arturo Grimaldi are in love with the capital’s artistic, modern and upscale side — but without affectation. “Buenos Aires has a lot to offer. It has an interesting scene and a really high quality of life,” says Luisa. Arturo, who worked at Malba up until 2009, enjoys walking in the city: “It's flat and full of trees.”